Peru Travel Teachings No 1: Español

7 11 2009

After 16 months of sweat and hard graft, yesterday was my last day at work, prompting a partially obligatory leaving party, in which there was ample supply of Pisco, a popular Peruvian grape brandy best enjoyed with ginger ale, granadine, lime and ice, or in the renowned Pisco Sour cocktail, which is Pisco blended with ice, lime, syrup and topped with cinnamon. Quite delicious, and the pride of Peruvians, who have actually outlawed any other drink by the name of Pisco to enter the country in an attempt to stop the Chilean version creeping north, an ongoing and bitter dispute between the pair of old rivals: no sh*t.

I’m digressing. During the despidida (farewell party), I became aware just how far my Spanish has come in my time here, when I was asked to make an impromtu speech by heckling work companions, mostly Spanish speakers. I managed to thank everyone for the oppertunity, for how great they’d all been to me, talked about how much i’d learned and how much I had enjoyed my time in Peru, and i think everyone understood. Not bad for a gringo.

My Spanish now is probably about a hundred times better than the non-existent version I spoke when I first got here, but i would need to be a thousand times better to call myself fluent. It is a massive language, and words regularly pop up that I have never needed to use before, while the conjugation of more complex grammar is still very difficult.

Immersion definitely helps; it was certainly much easier to learn when i was living in a house full of Spanish speakers, and had no choice but to pick up words to communicate, while learning became a bit more difficult when I moved into a house of Australians.  And having a Peruvian girlfriend in the meantime has definitely helped me to keep the Spanish up, although her English is so good that Spanish sometimes needs to be sidelined.

There was a brief period when I was doing internal communication for my company, which needed to be in both English and Spanish, and so this helped me to pick up some written grammar.  The same position required me to correspond with job applicants who, can you believe, hadnt even bothered to learn English? And I even gave the odd job interview in Spanish, though my role was usually reduced to asking the applicant what sports they practiced.

Now i have the confidence to hold my own in a conversation, book a bus ticket and even order a pizza, but i still have problems with my accent and listening, because people speak very quickly and use alot of slang words. But then I had that problem in Aberdeen sometimes, too.

To master a language is a gradual process, built upon over several years. I have probably been too impatient at times when I havent understood something, and have learned that even in my lifetime I will perhaps never be perfect at Spanish, presuming of course that perfection is possible in any language. And I have to bear in mind i didnt even take a class.

So: immersion + girlfriend + work responsibilities + daily use in practice = I have become proficient in Spanish (at least thats what the CV says).

A FEW SITES THAT HAVE HELPED ME ALONG THE WAY

http://www.spaleon.com/index.php

http://dictionary.reverso.net/spanish-english/





He regresado

7 11 2009

Bolivia? christ that happened almost a year ago. Well then, given that i’m leaving in about 6 or 7 days, I had better make some sort of decent attempt to finish what I started and actually complete this blog.

Far from not wanting to share photos, stories, annecdotes, trivia with all 6.5 billion of you since my last post in March, it simply became far too difficult to write about life and travel in Peru anymore. In short, when I originally started writing, everything in this country was still new and fresh, a new experience. Then everything became a bit more familiar, and it became harder and harder to write about, until eventually, I couldnt be bothered any more, and this blog became defunct.

Only temporarily though: with my immenent departure, i will soon no longer have the privelage of writing a Peru travel blog from within the country itself. So I’m going to attempt to round the whole thing off splendidly with a nice big fat red ribbon.

I’m not even going to attempt to give a day by day description, a blow by blow account: that would be manic and probably a bit crap given i can barely even remember what I did last weekend. So, well, I thought it would be more constructive if I looked back at my time here (aww) and figure out just exactly what I’ve learnt, if anything, and try and sort it into some sort of more coherent thought than the mess of ideas that is currently flying around in my head just now.

That is why we travel, right? To learn? well obviously minus booze cruises and beach holidays, work trips and …. ok, well the reason I am travelling is to learn. And learn I haved.

So here it is (uhm, or here it will be in the coming days), a series of posts engineered to assertain just exactly what the feck it is i’ve learned in 16 months in Peru.  Or something like that. Gosh, I can almost hear you gasping with anticipation already…





Muchos Fotos

16 03 2009
Well i’ve been a useless bastard as far as writing about bolivia is concerned. Here are lots of pictures, each on painting 1,000 words that I really should have written by now.Puno

Puno

The Frontier between Peru and Bolivia

The Frontier between Peru and Bolivia

Crossing Lake Titicaca

Crossing Lake Titicaca

La Paz

La PazLa Salar de Uyuni

Cactii, salt and a 4x4

Cactii, salt and a 4x4

More salt and cactii

More salt and cactii

More cactii, more salt and OH MY GOD WHAT THE F**K IS THAT?!?!

More cactii, more salt and OH MY GOD WHAT THE F**K IS THAT?!?!

A big book

A big bookaw!

Green Lagoon

Green Lagoon

Flamengoes

Flamengoes

Boliviaaaaaaaa

Boliviaaaaaaaa

Lone Flamengo

Lone Flamengo

a big odd shaped rock with a big odd shaped human

a big odd shaped rock with a big odd shaped human

Bolivian River

Bolivian River

Volcanic Lagoon

Volcanic Lagoon

Frontier between Bolivia and Chile (i naturally stepped inside chile quickly)

Frontier between Bolivia and Chile (i naturally stepped inside chile quickly)

Salt tinted landscape

Salt tinted landscape and mucho flamengos

aw!

aw!

At a silver mint in potosi

At a silver mint in potosi

Potosi

Potosi

Silver Mountain at Potosi

Silver Mountain at Potosi

Jesus Christ all-mighty that's a good photograph!

Jesus Christ all-mighty that's a good photograph!

Above Cochabamba

Above Cochabamba

Jesus Christ, a Scot and a Bolivian

Jesus Christ, a Scot and a Bolivian

The son of god, the resurrection, the saviour, the answer to our problems, the redeemer, the most important man in religious history, the most recognisable face in the world, and Jesus Christ

The son of god, the resurrection, the saviour, the answer to our problems, the redeemer, the most important man in religious history, the most recognisable face in the world, and Jesus Christ

Hostal on the Isla del Sol, Lago Titicaca

Hostal on the Isla del Sol, Lago Titicaca

Highest Lake in the World

Highest Lake in the World

Sun beginning to set over titicaca

Sun beginning to set over titicaca

Sun Set Titicaca

Sun Set Titicaca

Scot, German and American con lago titicaca

Scot, German and American con lago titicaca

Incan ruins on la isla del sol

Incan ruins on la isla del sol

Hmmm ... is that Scotland?

Hmmm ... is that Scotland?

a peaceful town on titicaca

a peaceful village on titicaca

a close up of that same peaceful village

a closeup of that same peaceful village





Cuando una persona es desde una Isla pequeño y el sabe la principal periodista …

12 12 2008




Siempre Cambiando

11 12 2008

Things have been shaken up a bit in the last couple of weeks.

Up until last Tuesday I lived in a house with nine fellow foreigners. This was a perfect scenario when I first arrived. I immediately got to know people who were in the same situation as me: twenty-somethings travelling to Peru to do internships or to study whilst embracing/experiencing/immersing themselves into a new culture and language. My housemates were Bolivian, Colombian, Ecuadorian, French, German, Swiss and, like me, were all new to Lima and Peru.  We discovered the city together: did all the touristy stuff in the city centre, went out to bars, had parties at the house, went on excursions outwith the city and generally just chilled out together in our free time. The multicultural/international vibe was cool with various themed nights based on different countries, with food, dancing and liqour from all across the world featuring for the arrival and departure of new people.

However, as is a consistent feature of life, things always have to change. I have now moved into a new apartment with two aussies, one of whom is from my work. Our apartment is on the edge of a slightly more run down part of town with the surroundings noticeably less pristine – though I’m not sure if you would ever use the word pristine to describe any part of Lima.

Nevertheless, it has several benefits. We live on the seventh and last floor on a newly built high rise building which means we (and only we) have access to a generously sized roof terrace which has a spectacular view across the city. The security is fine with a strong fence stretched around the perimiter and 24hr security guards at the gates. This is pretty much standard for a district where gunpoint robbery and other such violent crimes are commonplace. :)

The apartment is good and new with plenty of space though it is lacking in maintenance and furniture as of yet. But most importantly I have my own room after sharing for almost 5 months. Sorry Peter, but I’m sure you appreciate the peace and quiet too ;) So I’ve been pretty busy in the last couple of weeks, moving my immense mass of possessions (haha), buying mattresses and learning the directions to give taxi drivers.

Leaving the old house was pretty sad, I had good times there and met alot of good friends, but I couldn’t have lived there forever. One feature of the house is that there is a constant turnover of personage; the nature of temporal internships and studying meaning that people only stay there for the months that they needed to be in Lima before travelling or returning home. So alot of the people that I have known from the start have left and now felt like my time to move on. Plus the kitchen was always f**king manky and constant noise is no good for a light sleeper.

For my own despidida (leaving party) I slapped on the kilt, made some stovies and scotch eggs and gave a typically sarcastic appraisal of my country in powerpoint presentation form whilst fuelled by a bottle of Johnny Walker Red Label. Not sure if Scottish self-criticism has quite the same ring in grammatically questionable Spanish. The next day I made my last house-excursion as we all went to a beach resort 2 hours south of Lima to swim in the Pacific, lie on the beach, sample some (delicious) seafood and soak up some sun. In my case meant getting badly burned after stupidly skipping my stomach when applying suncream and simultaneously forgetting that the southern hemisphere has a nice big hole in its ozone layer. Lesson learned …

So that’s it – my time in the house is over. Granted, I’ve taken a slightly different approach to my interning housemates after only buying an expensive one way ticket and leaving myself with only enough money to move in with my ex-pat Australian friends and briefly sojourn to Bolivia in order to change my 2-month-expired visa.

Which leads on nicely to me saying I’m going to Bolivia on Sunday. 2 weeks in the heart of South America, followed by Christmas at Lake Titikaka with a whole bunch of stuff I’m not even going to dream of planning for in between.

Good times.





Cierren Guantanamo Por Favor

19 11 2008

Today I was granted a day off work in order to urge President Elect Barack Hussain Obama to keep his word and close the prison at Guantanamo Bay.

In order to make the plea, myself and several dozen other like minded people from Amnesty International assembled at a pretty green park overlooking the Lima waterfront to dress in orange overalls, don white masks (cleverly, you’ll note, in the same fashion as prisoners at Guantanamo) – and enact a brief demonstration of why current president Bush’s government has acted to violate the human rights of prisoners at Guantanamo Bay and why it needs to be immediately closed.

come on Barry, just close the camp

"come on Barry, just close the camp"

Several press-types from various tv channels and websites attended with all their crazy cameras and news reporters and there was even security guards and riot police who were standing by in case things got a bit rowdy. I did two interviews. The first one was in Spanish and the reporter soon got bored after she found out that I could barely say more than “Human Rights are Important” in my strained (but improving) take on Castillian. The second – for which I was chosen because I spoke native English -  I rambled on a bit about the reason why we were protesting and why a Scottish guy in Peru cared so much about an inhumane prison camp in Cuba. I have no idea where these will end up.

All in all it was a pleasant morning at the park was spent and George Bush will hopefully think twice before detaining people indefinately without trail and subjecting them to degrading, inhumane conditions again.

Our protest timing, far from being spontaneous, was in order to coincide with the imminent APEC summit which is being held in Lima. Several thousand foreign dignitaries – including George W himself – are descending on the city this weekend to chat about free trade and how to get richer during a financial crisis. It’s a pretty massive event for Lima – the government even granted two days holiday on thursday and friday, though this is probably to get as many people out of the city as possible so that the traffic has at least some chance of functioning whilst there are “real life important people” visiting. I’m writing a newsletter article on it at the moment so will post it as soon as it’s written – god bet you cant wait for that!!!!!!

So, I say to you Mr Barack Obama, if you stumble across my blog, let it be known that I urge you to close Guantanamo Bay as you have stated that you will. And, President George W Bush, should you chance a peek at this post, I’ll see you in court. At least you have the opportunity to go to court …

N.B. This all happened in Lima btw so is totally legit for a travel blog. Actually I dont even know if this ever was a travel blog, so it’s legit either way.





The City of Kings

19 11 2008
Lima from a 21 storey building, Miraflores facing Centre

Lima from a 21 storey building, Miraflores facing Centre

So last week was a run down of just some aspects of the city shown – in part – in the picture above. With a population 1.7 times that of Scotland, 42 times that of Aberdeen and 1678 times that of the Isle of Arran, it is by far the biggest place that I have ever lived. Travelling from one side of the city to the other is an eternity, even with the smaller of combis which are better adapted for zipping in and out of the relentless stream of honking (in both the sense of sound and of smell) traffic.

Even with it’s massive size, much of Lima still has a small town feel to it. There are noticable differences between the different districts that spread throughout the city making each part feel like a small city in its own right. There are richer districts such as San Isidro and San Borja – where the key financial institutions of the country are based – banks, large multinational businesses etc. -  and swanky resedential areas where all of the politicians have their houses built behind large walls and fences.

The district where I live and work – Miraflores – contains a large chunk of business as well though it also acts the tourist heart of the city, in that people spend the night here before heading off to Cusco and Machu Picchu. There are various classes of hotels, shopping centres, bars and restaurants that are largely tourist and backpacker orientated. The prices in many places are inflated in accordance with the fact that westerners are willing to pay more money for things. In fact it is usually the equivalent of the lowest of European and North American prices, it’s just that these are expensive in proportion to what things cost in other parts of Peru that are outside of the mainstream tourist flow.

Other districts are much in the same vein as Miraflores and the above as far as residential areas are concerned. Though not quite so touristy or finance orientated, there are many pleasant residential areas of the city where the middle class population of Lima live, where the main Universities are based and where various shopping districts are located. To the south of Miraflores is a district called Barranco, which has beaches and ideallic views of the Pacific and colourful colonial buildings crumbling at the corners. This has earned a reputation for being the bohemian haunt of the city with many artists and musicians residing there. It’s got the best night life as well with bars and nightclubs open til the morning – ahem, not that i’d know of course.

Moving outside of the districts where all of the money is, things start to get a bit more sketchy. There are less security guards and buildings are noticeably more dilapidated, many having fallen into disrepair. It’s also much dirtier as people are not hired to sweep the streets or water the parks or pick up litter (a chronic problem) outside of the “most important” districts in the city, which could be better described as the places where people pay taxes.

The centre of the city can be quite dangerous away from the heavily guarded government buildings and it is certainly not advisable to travel there after dark. It’s usually in such areas where the taxi driver advises you to lock your door in the event of him having to stop in traffic and theives storming the car (i’m told it happens).

Then – spreading around the kernels of wealth and economy – are the slums that have evolved over the last thirty years. I’ve only driven through some of these but the highways and main roads avoid the worst parts for sure. I’m sure I’ll get a proper chance to visit while I am still living here, but i’ll probably not be taking my passports/money/camera with me.

So thats a wee breakdown of how Lima works. I wish I had learned more but -as i’ve stated – this city is very big, and when working forty hours a week it is easy to fall into a comfort zone as everything i need i can have in Miraflores – with a quick taxi ride to Barranco every now and again.

For a repitition of many of these facts and statistics, check out Wikipedia, the most reliable and unbiased source of information that exists on all of the whole entire internet.





Rico

12 11 2008

Food in Lima is quite simply delicious. It is often argued by many ex-pats living here that Peruvian cuisine should be ranked amongst the highest in the world. Were I to attempt such a ranking:

1) Indian 2) Peruvian 3) Italian 4) Thai 5) Mexican

That looked like an attempt, but anyway, my point is that Peruvian food is exquisite. It just hasn’t been recognised worldwide yet. Not too many Peruvians travel the world to start restaurants or spread the word of their cuisine, although one celebrity chef is attempting this at the moment. Another reason: Peruvians have no confidence in their culinary abilities and don’t often see the need to share recipes past those in their families.

For me, aside from my friends here, food has been by far the best thing about the city. One of my friends at work recently wrote an article for our news letter explaining why it is thriving. Another article in “The Examiner” argues that Peruvian cuisine is set for world domination. Here’s my own summary of reasons why Peruvian food is excellent:

1) Seafood is fresh. The Pacific Ocean swells to the east and the same point of the coastline that makes clouds build up during winter has the effect of shoring up (is that a palinism??) the massive variety of marine life that originates in the Pacific. Fishing boasts dont have far to travel before they can find a catch to bring directly back to the city.

2) Peru is biologically diverse – jungle, mountains, coast is the basic formation from east to west and within these areas are different climatic conditions where a vast variety of wonderful ingredients can be produced. Many types of Potatos in the mountains – endless fruits and vegetables in the Amazon – fish and seafood on the coastline.

3) Varied traditions – The Inca empire and those before it were renowned for successfully managing food production and distribution within Peru’s diverse climate range. Their traditions have since been built upon by the numerous culinary styles of people immigrating to Peru from across the world – Europe, China, other Latin American countries – to create a fantastic fusion of different flavour combination and techniques

Maybe the best thing of all is that this food is readily available. All over the city there are markets and restaurants that provide a good range of Peruvian fare for very little. Lomo saltado is a popular type of stir fry with beef, onions and peppers which is rich and flavoursome.  Some of the more expensive restaurants – still the same price as budget restaurants in Europe – have absolutely wonderful dishes, with fantastic creamy sauces poured over generous cuts of meat or crunchy shellfish served fresh in a marinade of lime and chili.

And then there’s aji. Peru wouldnt be Peru without aji. This is essentially chili sauce which can range from bright yellow to deep red to rose pink. It has a really full pepper flavour and can be mildly picante or burn your mouth out. I eat it every single day, with tasty chicharron (lightly fried pork) sandwiches or mussells or anything that i’m eating.

Which is anything here, because everything tastes good :)





El Centro

11 11 2008

The centre of Lima holds many government buildings, churches, cathedrals and museums which are amongst the most old and beautiful in the city. It clusters around two main squares, the Plaza de Armas and Plaza San Martin.

One one side of the Plaza de Armas is the Presidential Palace. The Palace is guarded by an array of armed forces from police men with assault rifles to large armoured cars.

Pres. Ally Garcia's bit

El Presidente Ally Garcia's bit

Every time I have visited the centre there has been a parade of some form. People in vibrant costumes, singing dancing or playing a swinging Latin American marching rhythm on an arrangement of brass instruments. Such parades seem to have a certain element of appeasement to them, to reinforce the glorious image of the Peruvian republic upon people. Much the same, I believe, can be said of the grandiose buildings, plazas and parks of the centre that are upkept to an overwhelming degree more than the vast majority of the city’s infrastructure.

In fact, come to think of it, Peruvian nationalism is very much used by the government to coat over many of the country’s problems. People’s attention is diverted away from the troubling life that so many people here lead by  When I first arrived here I was struck by the devout patriotism displayed at the Independence Day Parade (my first ever given that my own country is not independent) with Peruvian flags being handed out everywhere and regiments of the Peruvian army parading down the street.

The journalism in Peru could also be an indication of this. A prime example is the governments own news agency Andina which glosses over and avoidsmany negative stories whilst blowing what may only be temporary or slight positive data out of all context and proportion: Peru is great, trust your government, your life is good, there are no problems.

One glance at some of the poorer areas that cover the hills rising on the outskirts of Lima show that everything here is not really all well and good. In reality, it feels like problems with poverty can never be solved as the government simply does not have enough money. So politicians are forced to lie and say everything’s ok just to stay in power and earn their salaries. Behind closed doors they care only about their own wallets.

For people who do indeed live a comfortable life, this is an easy pill to swallow. For the vast majority of others, not so much.





Sunny sunny Lima

10 11 2008

Ok, this post was inevitable, so I thought I’d save it for the night this week when I got in late.

If there’s one thing that has changed alot in my time in Lima, it’s the weather. When I arrived it was cloudy. Extremely cloudy. There was no break in the cloud for up to months on end and neither sun, star nor blue sky crept into vision for even a second of this. Thisdoes tend to give the old optimism a good battering. I have often looked at the “buy one get one free” factor 30 jumbo bottles of suncream that I bought in my last day in Scotland and wondered whether I will ever take them out of their boots pharmacy carrier bag.

Another oddity: despite cloud persistence there had not been one drop of rain for three months in this city before the other day when it spat lightly for a good fifteen minutes. Sure, there had been a spot of mild drizzle, but this had never became heavy enough to constitute full blown drops of rain. The city is very humid – it is on the coast of the pacific ocean – but this humidity hangs in the air and forms into big thick clouds and mist that have absolutely no intention of turning into rain. The reason why the following is “necessary”:

Watering the grass

Watering the grass

Lima is in the middle of a desert, so in those areas of town where people are lucky enough to have earned the privalage of grassy areas, much water application is needed. So the grass gets watered.

The proximity to the worlds biggest ocean mixed with the cold Humbolt Current that flows just past the very tip of Lima’s coastline mixed with the city’s barren desert terrain mixed with the barrier that is formed by the nearby Andes all combine to constitute what is known as a “micro climate” which applies solely to Lima and is the reason for all the clouds. In as little as half an hours drive outside of the city it is possible to find places where the sun presides all year round. Of all the cities in South America I could have chosen to live… :)

But now, as summer approaches, Lima’s other season is beginning to become apparent, and it is getting properly sunny. With subtropical sun comes extreme heat, and as a result, today I am sunburnt. Might have to break open that sun cream after all…