Peru Travel Teachings No. 3: Como llegar a Machu Picchu por la ruta mas barato

15 12 2009
Machu Picchu, Machu Picchu travel, Peru travel

Machu Picchu, the classic view

Machu Picchu; a splendid sight nestled in a lush section of the Peruvian Andes, one of many examples of the ingenuity of Inca architecture and how it blends spectacularly with the surrounding environment.

This particular example of Inca Architecture is considered by many to be the best way to examine the remarkable history of pre-Colombian civilisation in South America. The Inca empire first emerged around 150 years before the arrival of Europeans in the Americas, the last of a long line of pre-Colombian civilisations that had developed in Peru for 5,000 years.

Machu Picchu, Machu Picchu travel, Inca architecture

Many sections of the ruins reflect the surrounding mountains; they are almost always dotted with several people.

Machu Picchu now receives as many as 2,500 visitors a day, showing how immensely popular the site has become, and reflecting its dominance – at least in terms of tourism – over any other pre-Colombian ruin in Peru and the Americas (perhaps only rivaled by Maya ruins in the Yucatan). The massive profitability of such a site has indeed been recognised; travel to Machu Picchu is controlled and regulated by ensuring that it remains difficult to reach, and thus ensuring that travellers have little option but to pay a premium price to get there.

As a result, the only ways of currently getting to the ruins are: by walking the world famous Inca Trail; by means of a train journey from Cusco or the Sacred Valley to the small town of Aguas Calientes (situated in the valley beneath the ruins and built almost exclusively for this purpose); or by walking on one of the alternative trails that have been opened in recent years, namely Lares and Salkantay.

Unfortunately for skint backpackers, even the most economic of these routes is expensive; the train from Ollantaytambo in the Sacred Valley can cost between $60 and $500 return, while the train from Cusco can be even more than that. The Inca Trail costs a minimum of $400 for those who organise to go with guides from Cuzco, while the alternative trails can also reach into hundreds of dollars per person.

Luckily for those who cant fork out even $60 (that buys alot of beer in Peru), there is another way to get to the foot of Machu Picchu: it is possible to walk along the train track from the Hydro Electric Power Plant on the other side of the valley from Aguas Calientes. The aptly named hidroeléctrica de Machu Picchu can be reached from a small town called Santa Teresa, which is on the opposite side of Machu Picchu from Aguas Calientes (see link to map below). The walk from the power plant takes about 2 to 3 hours, plus another 1 and a half hours to climb the steep hill to Machu Picchu.

In August, we went to Machu Picchu by this option following a 2 day jungle boat adventure near Quillabamba. This beautifully situated jungle town is relatively nearby to Santa Teresa, and it meant we didn’t have to travel all the way back to the Sacred Valley just to return again by train. And we were pleased to find it was relatively straightforward to walk, despite this not being the preferred route of the vast majority of those who travel to Machu Picchu, and even less popular amongst those who want to profit from them. Walking along the rails can be a bit hard on the feet without proper boots, and there is a precarious bridge to cross, but it is a nice walk and you can even see the ruins up above on the ridge.

Machu Picchu, Machu Picchu travel, Peru travel guide

My second time at Machu Picchu, looking thrilled

Below is a step by step guide to avoid letting your hard earned cash end up in the hands of those entities who currently have a monopoly over the train routes to Machu Picchu, along with several 5 star hotels in Cusco and Lima, and one right next to the ruins themselves.

How to get to Machu Picchu from Cusco via Santa Teresa

1. Go to Cusco and find your way to the “Terminal de carro a Quillabamba” – or the bus terminal for Quillabamba – this is easiest by taxi (3 soles minimum)

2. Take a bus to Santa María, which is on the road between Cusco and Quillabamba, about 4 hours from Cusco. This is a spectacular journey, through Ollantaytambo and then climing past the Nevado Veronica in the Cordilleras Urubamba, all in comfortable transport. Note that this road can sometimes be troublesome during rainy season (15 soles)

3. Take a combi (mini-bus) from Santa María to Santa Teresa, another breathtaking journey (6 soles min.)

4. Stay overnight in Santa Teresa, a pleasant town with some nice restaurants (hostal 10 soles min.)

Santa Teresa, Machu Picchu travel, Peru travel

The amazing journey from Santa María to Santa Teresa


5a. Choose this option to arrive at Machu Picchu at around 10am

i. Get up early (6am) and take a combi to the nearby hydro electric plant (3 soles)

ii. Walk from the Hydro Electric Plant, along the train track, to the entrance at the foot of Machu Picchu

iii. Climb to Machu Picchu to arrive for around 10am.

5b. Choose this option to arrive at Machu Picchu at around 5.30am (for those who want to arrive early and climb Huanya Picchu (the mountain in the background)).

i. Spend the morning in Santa Teresa (there are delightful volcanic hot springs)

ii. Take a combi to the Hydro Electric Plant around 3pm (3 soles)

iii. Walk along the train tracks to Aguas Calientes, arrive 5 or 6pm

iv. Stay overnight in Aguas Calientes (20 soles min.)

v. Get up at 4am and climb to Machu Picchu, arrive 5.30am ahead of the first bus load of people.

A few more pointers for those who want to do this:

  • You should buy your entrance ticket to Machu Picchu beforehand ($20 for students, $40 for Adults), this can be done in either Cusco or in Aguas Calientes after you walk there.
  • Aim to walk back to Santa Teresa at about 3 or 4pm, before it gets dark. That should give lots of time to explore the ruins.
  • If you walk form the Hydro Plant and climb to Machu Picchu on the same morning (option 5a.), it can be tiring, and will perhaps leave you quite exhausted for exploring the ruins.
  • Any of the combi rides can be made by Taxi; if you are traveling with a group this can also be an economical option, costing perhaps a few soles extra per person.
  • Believe it or not, a train runs along the train track from the hydro plant as well, but there are only 2 leaving a day; one leaves at 8am in the morning and is reserved for Peruvian nationals only (5 soles), the other leaves about 4 in the afternoon and costs $15 one way, for any nationality. Tickets can be bought from the office in Santa Teresa on the day of travel.
  • I would have drawn a map, but Andean Travel Web have already made a very pretty one. This linked page also has more useful information about travel to Machu Picchu via Santa Teresa, while the rest of the Andean Travel Web site has excellent and comprehensive independent travel tips for across Peru.
  • All this info is current to August 2009
  • Watch out for trains when walking

Thats it, I learned the cheapest way to arrive at Machu Picchu, for about 37 soles from Cusco (13 dollars, or even less, one way including the hostal in Santa Teresa). Stingy bastard huh? Well at least my money is in the hands of local transport companies.


Peru Travel Teachings No 2: El acceso a Internet es un privilegio

9 11 2009

In Santa Teresa, on an alternative route to Machu Picchu, my friend Mark and I stopped for the night before heading to the famous Inca citadel the next morning. Mark became thoroughly aggravated when we couldn’t access the Internet, despite the fact that there was a Cabina de Internet in the small town.

Well at least “Cabina de Internet” was how this burnt-out room full of PC’s had been advertised. When we finally got to a computer, it was unable to access our Hotmail accounts, let alone any web page at all. The guy in charge of the place was reluctant to give us another computer to try, given that all of his friends were busy trying to play World of Warcraft, Max Payne and other such games on the available machines. (On reflection, we realised that this was probably the reason the connection was so slow.)

As Mark stormed away in a rager, understandably ruffled by the guy’s lack of concern for his communication with home, I realised that I had become accustomed to public internet access here being totally shoddy and unreliable in the current absence of my own annoyance.

Internet connections in this part of South America are, for the most part, sporadic. The vast majority of people in Bolivia and Peru can get access through one of the many Cabinas de Internet; which usually come in the form of street-side stores that are full of PCs with a connection. For Cabinas de Internet per capita, Peru is one of the leading countries in the world.

Like the one in Santa Teresa, the connections can be woeful. During travel in Peru in Bolivia and living in Lima, I have uniformly had trouble accessing the internet through cabinas, with regular problems such as a painfully slow connection, websites and programs not working, and even power cuts taking their toll on some occasions.

I have learned that it is probably best not to expect too much when visiting a cabina; this way, when the internet does work, I take my internet time much less for granted, and realise just what a privilege this actually is. And apart from anything else the cost of using the internet is minimal when compared to expensive public access in the UK; perhaps not so minimal for those who need every last céntimo just to eat.

In the case of private connections, I’ve just been disconnected from the Internet since Sunday morning, essentially because the friend’s connection I had planned to use to write this blog was rigged off of another line. For people who can’t afford the high costs of the service providers, riggings are the most convenient form of home Internet access. I am currently sipping on an espresso to access this privelage.

In Peru, up until recently, private connections had been monopolised by company Teléfonica. This monopoly was handed on a plate by now incarcerated ex-president Fujimori to a Spanish company Teléfonica.  During his burst of privatisation in the early 90’s, his government sold off what was previously a nationally owned enterprise, through ENTEL Peru and Compañía Nacional de Teléfonos, for around two hundred million dollars. This was despite Fujimori stating in his campaign that he would do no such thing.

Teléfonica’s dominance has remained strong and has continued into the Internet age; it is rare to find a connection not provided by the company. This means they can keep the price of private connections high, and that cabinas remain by far the most affordable form of Internet use.

Even in some cases when people seek a legal Internet connection from Teléfonica, their service can be very inefficient. It took 18 months for them to respond to the friend whose connection I was using, never visiting said person’s home to install the line even after repeated phone calls. And in the end, it was actually a Teléfonica employee to whom they turned to rig the line, paying a one-off sum for unlimited internet access.

The competition is starting to get its act together, thankfully, as Teléfonica’s contract with the government has run out; maybe this will spur them to providing a better service.

Luckily for me, my work has provided me with an internet connection the entire time; quite simply, they have the plata to do so. Not wanting to spend the entire day on the computer, though (a previous concern of mine), I’ve never bothered with a private Internet connection, partly tempered by the fact that my humble Laptop has all but died.

Through my experience outside of the workplace I have learned that Internet access is absolutely a privilege. Of course, it should be a right; hopefully it wont hinder future blog posting….

Peru Travel Teachings No 1: Español

7 11 2009

After 16 months of sweat and hard graft, yesterday was my last day at work, prompting a partially obligatory leaving party, in which there was ample supply of Pisco, a popular Peruvian grape brandy best enjoyed with ginger ale, granadine, lime and ice, or in the renowned Pisco Sour cocktail, which is Pisco blended with ice, lime, syrup and topped with cinnamon. Quite delicious, and the pride of Peruvians, who have actually outlawed any other drink by the name of Pisco to enter the country in an attempt to stop the Chilean version creeping north, an ongoing and bitter dispute between the pair of old rivals: no sh*t.

I’m digressing. During the despidida (farewell party), I became aware just how far my Spanish has come in my time here, when I was asked to make an impromtu speech by heckling work companions, mostly Spanish speakers. I managed to thank everyone for the oppertunity, for how great they’d all been to me, talked about how much i’d learned and how much I had enjoyed my time in Peru, and i think everyone understood. Not bad for a gringo.

My Spanish now is probably about a hundred times better than the non-existent version I spoke when I first got here, but i would need to be a thousand times better to call myself fluent. It is a massive language, and words regularly pop up that I have never needed to use before, while the conjugation of more complex grammar is still very difficult.

Immersion definitely helps; it was certainly much easier to learn when i was living in a house full of Spanish speakers, and had no choice but to pick up words to communicate, while learning became a bit more difficult when I moved into a house of Australians.  And having a Peruvian girlfriend in the meantime has definitely helped me to keep the Spanish up, although her English is so good that Spanish sometimes needs to be sidelined.

There was a brief period when I was doing internal communication for my company, which needed to be in both English and Spanish, and so this helped me to pick up some written grammar.  The same position required me to correspond with job applicants who, can you believe, hadnt even bothered to learn English? And I even gave the odd job interview in Spanish, though my role was usually reduced to asking the applicant what sports they practiced.

Now i have the confidence to hold my own in a conversation, book a bus ticket and even order a pizza, but i still have problems with my accent and listening, because people speak very quickly and use alot of slang words. But then I had that problem in Aberdeen sometimes, too.

To master a language is a gradual process, built upon over several years. I have probably been too impatient at times when I havent understood something, and have learned that even in my lifetime I will perhaps never be perfect at Spanish, presuming of course that perfection is possible in any language. And I have to bear in mind i didnt even take a class.

So: immersion + girlfriend + work responsibilities + daily use in practice = I have become proficient in Spanish (at least thats what the CV says).